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标题: 在国外论坛上看到的trex450常见问题解答 [打印本页]

作者: 飞车 时间: 2007-12-9 20:53
标题: 在国外论坛上看到的trex450常见问题解答
今天在5IMX上看到了一个国外模型论坛的链接，www.helifreak.com，进去发现有个亚拓450的专区，其中有不少的技术好贴，发现其中一个帖子很适合初学者，对老手也有一定帮助，现转帖如下，因为本人时间不多，水平有限，没办法全部翻译，希望哪位高手能帮忙翻译一下，以帮助初学者尽快提高水平。
My blades will not track

Small link(Link from seesaw to blade grips): Try a 1 spin adjustment for the blade that is low, mind your direction of twist on this one make sure your not adding to the distance instead of closing it. The small link attached to the blade grip is used for large gaps in tracking and should be adjust sparingly.

Long link(Link from Swash to seesaw): This is where you can fine tune tracking, your long links don’t move the pitch on the blades as much as your small links, use these to fine the last 2 or 3 mm of tracking. The long link is the link from the swash plate up to the mixer arm in the seesaw.

Blade balance: One of the most important things you can do to help your tracking is to make sure you blades are balanced you can find a simple balancer ReadiHeli or RcHover

Contributed from Gunz:a slight bend in the feathering shaft can cause the blades to be off no matter how much adjustment is done, so make sure you know your feathering shaft is straight.
Contributed by catfight: Another thing to consider that affects tracking is the screws that mount the flybar seesaw to the rotor housing- Loktite and retighten. This has been the answer in several cases (happens to me after crashes).

Tail boom adjustment.

Make absolutely sure the vertical tail is truly vertical- prevents belt shredding.

Tail spins uncontrollably

Gyro direction: Make sure you have the right direction set on your gyro, your helicopter should at best spin very slowly if your linkage is off but if it spins wildly it more than likely because your Gyro direction is set wrong.

Tail blade direction: another thing to check is your tail blade direction, make sure that the tail blades are spinning up into the wash, meaning your blades will spin counter clockwise if you are looking straight at them.

Motor Bogs

ESC
Motor
Blades
Pinion
Formula for head speed

Rex wobbles on startup and at low head speed but is smooth on lift off

When you first straighten out your blades to get ready to fly, there's not really any way to get them 100% by eyeballing them. When the blades start to spin up, the blades will be a little off balance because of this, and the heli will vibrate.......as the blades spin faster, unless they're in the grips too tight, they will straighten themselves out, thanks to centrifugal force.......once they've done that, and got to a reasonably high speed, most of the vibration goes away, and what doesn't go away, becomes a higher frequency vibration that is difficult to see.
Contributed by H0ndaJunkie
Just grab blades by the end(tips) and pull. this will get it as close to even as posible. should spool up fine from here as long as you have the blades balanced Contributed by sratzo

Apex Packs Great deal? You decide

So far I have gotten about 10-12 minutes of hover per pack and after the first few charges they have gotten stronger IMHO I like these packs.

Blue or white Gears

There is 2 questions here fist is:Why the blue gears (Delrin) Well this is strictly preference on your behalf as far as the main gear is concerned the only advantage the blue has over the white gear is a truer circumference, because the blue is softer than the white it can obtain higher tolerances to the original specs and give you better gear mesh with the main motor pinion, the white gear because it is a harder plastic is susceptible to manufacture defects that can cause a loose mesh on one side and tight on the other(odd long gear).

Second:
Why use the blue (tail speed reduction) gear, simple... safety, the blue gearing for the tail drops the tail speed considerably which can and will help you if you have any problems with your tail such as a blade flying off, broken screw on the grips, etc... But the over all advantage to this is safety. If you previously had the white gears on and switched over to the blue for the tail, then you will more than likely have to reset your throttle and pitch curves according to the slower tail speeds. This means you will have to have in increased constant head speed to keep the tail speed at an rpm that does not drift because its not getting enough revolutions.

Pitch curves? Beginner and advanced

Beginner: A pitch curve is the rate your main blade pitch raises or lowers depending upon your radio settings and stick position. When setting up a radio and heli for the first time everything works off MID stick on your throttle(collective). Make sure your motor is disconnected before you attempt setup any curves as you will need to use your throttle (collective) stick to test. (unplug any 2 wires from your ESC to your motor)

At mid stick throttle(collective) your blades must be at 0 degrees of pitch; at high stick you should have about 10-11 degrees of pitch and low stick should be at -10 -11 degrees; at this point we are only looking at the mechanical aspect of the head using a full range of pitch of 0 low to 100 high

We now know when we move the stick to 100% we have +10 degrees, at mid stick we have 0 degrees and low stick we have -10 degrees.

My suggestion for any beginner is to set your pitch up so that you have -2 degrees on low stick, 0 degrees on mid and +10 on full. The reason for only -2 degrees is simple, as a beginner(at least myself) you have a tendency to want to drop your throttle(collective) as quick as possible if you should get into any trouble, and with a pitch setting of -10 degrees at low stick you will SMASH your helicopter into the floor, so we need to eliminate all that pitch without touching anything mechanical.

This is were Pitch curves come into play, on any radio if you go into the menu settings you will find a spot to adjust your pitch curves, most radios have a 5 point pitch curve which allows for a finer tuning of you pitch opposed to a 3 point curve the Spektrums offer.

5 point setting: 35-40-50-75-100
3 point setting: 35-50-100

What this will do is make your low stick automatically go to 35% stick even when the throttle is all the way down, so instead of giving a full -10 degrees of pitch when you pull your stick all the way down you should now be giving about -2 to -3 degrees on your negative, this will allow the helicopter to come down much smoother and softer if you drop your throttle(collective) very fast.

Note from Gary JP4 as a beginner you should not have to worry about your idle up curves right away just make sure you normal hover curves are set correct so you -2 -3 on low 0 at mid and 100 at full. Thanks Gary

Why do people mount their gyros under the boom?

When you crash, the fly bar can destroy your expensive gyro if it is on top. Even a minor crash while hovering can sometimes take out the gyro making it a very expensive crash. Most people move it to a protected spot that is still assessable for making adjustments.

Rick makes nice mounts for the SE, XL, and SuperFrames that allow you to easily mount your gyro safely under the boom where it is still accessible to make adjustments. Here is his website.

http://www.wavelandps.com/clearly/

作者: 飞车 时间: 2007-12-9 20:55
Tail Belt Tension: How tight?

Check the tension at the tail belt pulley, looking down just behind the main shaft.

According to the Trex manual: "you should be able to apply light tension to the belt with your finger until it reaches a point 3/4 of the way to the opposite edge..."

Personally, I like to use a small screwdriver to test the belt tension as my fingers are too pudgy to allow me to push the belt and see how far it moves.
How to adjust the tail belt tension:

To adjust the tail boom tension, loosen the screws in the tail block. Grasp the boom firmly and pull backwards (towards the tail). Make sure your other hand is grabbing on a solid piece of the frame. If the tail boom does not move, try loosening the two screws securing the horizontal fin to the tail boom bracket as well. Once the tension is correct, tighten all the screws (remember to reapply loctite).

How to keep the tail belt from loosening:

The most common cause of the tail belt loosening is the tail boom slipping forward in the tail block. To prevent the slipping you can wrap a small piece of packing tape around the boom where it is gripped by the tail block. This tape increases the OD of the boom to allow the block to get a better grip.

Alternatively, you can put an extra tail servo mount on the boom right up against the block, the mount will also keep the boom from sliding back.
Contributed by Glucoseboy

What does Heading hold mean?

It is actually Heading hold - the gyro will maintain a "heading" (the direction you are flying) unless you apply some rudder.

Setup info about GY401 delay

Set the 401's "DS" switch to only if you have digital servo, and set the delay to "0". The delay feature is for the slower analog servos that can't keep up with the 270Hz pulse rate generated by the 401.

How to calculate your head speed

A simple very easy to use spreadsheet was created in order to do this exact thing so there is no need to know complicated mathamatatical equations, and here it is http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=...calculator.xls
Here is a simple easy to use calc for headspeeds
http://www.readyheli.com/Online_Head...lator_s/81.htm
Contributed by Raven_darkcloud

How to check your Cyclic pitch(s)

1) Put a pitch gauge on one of your main blades (not the paddles) and set your collective pitch to ZERO using the collective stick on your TX. Leave it there.

2) Position your blades so that they are parallel to the tail of your heli and input maximum "AIL" on your TX cyclic stick. Rule of thumb is that your max deflection should be around SIX degrees (both UP and DOWN). Adjust ATV (End-Point) if it is off a little. If it is off a bunch, check to see that you have the correct servo-arm lengths. (NOTE: more cyclic pitch is not always GOOD because it is added to your collective pitch and can cause blade stall at max/max deflection. SIX degrees added to TEN degrees is a lot.)

3) Position your blades so they are at right angles to the tail of your heli and input maximum "ELE" on your TX cyclic stick. Same rule of thumb and same remedy.

4) Most heli's that I've seen come out about right with 100% ATV (or 50% if it's part of the swash mixing for CCPM). Most heli's that I've seen will have the correct throws if the movable part of the swash-plate just comes to the "flat" on the swash-ball (not all the way to the mast).
Contributed by HeliHam

Lubes, Maintenance, misc…

For lube use triflow. When it comes to maintenance Check all parts and screws before and after every flight. Tear down and clean every 10 to 15 flight hours. Blow the motor out with caned air or non conductive electrical cleaner. Clean bearings with isopropyl and re-lube. Inspect belts and gears for wear. Check shafts to be sure they are strait.
Contributed by Raven_darkcloud

Head Speeds; where do you want to be?

1. Bob "Finless" White's NEED MORE HEADSPEED camp. Usually, anything above 2800RPM at 0 pitch will satisfy this outspoken crowd. Anything above 3100RPM has a good probability of exploding your wooden blades, so you need carbons to be able to drive that high safely.

Pros: more headspeed makes your heli dramatically more stable and wind resistant, while giving you tons of power for extreme 3D maneuvers and even easier hovering for newbies.
Cons: Your tail sometimes explodes in midair like it got on the wrong side of Al Qaeda, and if you crash the bird running that kind of headspeed it results in quite a bit more damage (particularly stripped servos) than a lower speed. Flight times are often shorter than 7 minutes, and tales of destroyed LiPos are common.

2. The Aerial Photography "How low of a head speed can I get away with" camp. These folks are all about duration and inertia. 335 Pro Wood blades are popular with these people, and head speeds as low as 1600-1800RPM aren't unusual. Who needs 20C batteries when some nice 8C 3100mAh batteries will do the same job for this sedate crowd? Lots of Sunday Hoverers in this group, and they have a devoted following.

Pros: Long flight times, fewer destroyed LiPos, and relaxing fun.
Cons: Lots of tales of severe tail wobble (direct related to lower headspeed), uncontrollable tail spinouts if you punch the collective hard, higher pitch required, and some difficulty with wind.

3. The In-Betweeners. This is me. Living somewhere between 2200 and 2800RPM.

Pros: Decent performance, reasonable stability, 8-10 minute flight times.
Cons: Often the worst of both worlds from a stability, wobblies, duration, and LiPo durability standpoint.

What is idle up/sports mode/..... what does it do and how?

In order to control a collective pitch heli we need to mix two controls onto the left stick, that is throttle and collective pitch.

The PC and TC tell how much pitch and throttle for a given stick position. In a collective pitch heli (CP) we want to maintain a constant rotor rpm and vary height by changing the pitch of the main blades. As you increase the pitch of the main blades you increase the lift they create but you also increase the drag so the rotor system wants to slow down so you have to add throttle to maintain rpm. As you decrease the pitch to descend you unload the system and if you don’t back off the throttle the rotor will overspeed so you want less throttle. Your pc and tc setup the relationship between pitch and throttle.

Flight modes allow us to have different pitch and throttle settings for various types of flying with each flight mode switch position being programmed separately.

Normal mode is where we do most of our training. Normal mode shuts the motor off at low stick (electric) or goes to idle (nitro) for the throttle and increases as the stick position increases, at the top of the stick movement we should have full throttle. Hover position should be about 5 degrees of pitch and 50 percent throttle around mid stick (more on this later). Usually the pitch is set up for between -2 and -4 degrees at bottom stick 5 or 6 at mid and 9 or 10 at top stick.

Idle up modes are used for aerobatic flying (stunt mode is the same thing), you can have several idle up modes with different head speeds, dual rates or whatever for different types of flying.
A typical idle up pitch curve would be -10 at bottom stick, 0 at mid stick and +10 at full stick with upright hovering at 3/4 stick, inverted hovering at 1/4 stick. Your throttle curve would be 100 percent at bottom, around 50 percent at mid stick going back to 100 percent at top stick so that at bottom stick you have full negative pitch and full throttle and at top stick you have full pitch and full throttle.

Once you get used to flying in idle up many people set up their normal mode to hover at 3/4 stick by manipulating the pitch and throttle points so that the helicopter doesnt jump when you flip the flight mode switch.

Other flight modes can be set up for different head speeds, competition often requires a different feel for hovering etc but many of us spool up in normal, flip to idle up and go fly, land at half stick, flip the idle up switch to normal and let the heli spool down. Different people do it different ways and this is just the basics so you understand whats going on.

Tracking vibrations:

Here is my unsafe method of tracking vibrations; I have a workbench with 4 holes drilled in it and I use tie straps to tighten down the heli. (Not a recommended method)

First thing i do is remove all blades, tail and rotor, at this point you eliminate your first possible cause for vibrations; at this point what you want to do is slowly spin up your heli but be aware do not overspeed your motor, with no load on your motor your RPM's will soar rather quick and this could damage the motor if you maintain this type of speeed with no load. Once the heli is spinning you may be able to see the vibrations still there:
Head
If you have a head Vibration there are 4 things to check your spindle shaft(feathering shaft); now don’t be afraid to replace this, this shaft can bend just by landing hard. Next is the main shaft what I like to do is take the entire head off and leave the main attached to the main gear and then spin it up, carefully check to see if there is vibration or wobble. Your main gear, you main gear can actually warp under heat and stress, this can cause the heli to get louder when its running and casue vibrations. last is your dampeners make sure you replace them every so often to ensure you get no slop in your grips.
Tail
Simple way to test is break down the tail to just the spindle and spin it up if you have a vibe replace the bearing and/or the tail shaft these two thing are the most common cause for vibrations in a tail. If this is not the casue then replace the tail parts 1 by one until you can see the vibration.

作者: 飞车 时间: 2007-12-9 21:08
标题: 还是我来先翻译一段吧，有不对的地方请指正
How to keep the tail belt from loosening:

The most common cause of the tail belt loosening is the tail boom slipping forward in the tail block. To prevent the slipping you can wrap a small piece of packing tape around the boom where it is gripped by the tail block. This tape increases the OD of the boom to allow the block to get a better grip.

Alternatively, you can put an extra tail servo mount on the boom right up against the block, the mount will also keep the boom from sliding back.
Contributed by Glucoseboy

如何防止尾管松脱

最常见的尾管松脱的原因是尾管由于震动向前慢慢向尾管固定座中滑动。为了防止这种松脱，可以在尾管上与固定座接触的部分缠一圈胶带，这样可以增加尾管对固定座的应力以使其更好的夹紧尾管。

或者，也可以将尾舵机固定架靠近机身的一侧紧贴着固定座，然后锁紧舵机固定架的螺钉，这样也可以防止尾管向前滑动。
该条建议由Glucoseboy提供。

作者: italiano9888 时间: 2007-12-9 21:21
英语一翘不通哈

作者: wcdsxm 时间: 2007-12-9 21:32
只通一点，但是也懒的看他

作者: happymatt 时间: 2007-12-9 21:52
译文作些修改，锦上添花：

如何防止尾皮带松脱

最常见的尾皮带松脱的原因是尾管在固定座中向前滑动。为了防止这种松脱，可以在尾管上被固定座夹持部分缠上一圈胶带，这样可以增加尾管的外径以使固定座能更好的夹紧尾管。

或者，也可以将一个另外的尾舵机固定架安装在尾杆上，紧靠着固定座，这样安装也可以防止尾管向前滑动。

该条建议由Glucoseboy提供。

作者: 飞车 时间: 2007-12-11 10:10
Rex wobbles on startup and at low head speed but is smooth on lift off
When you first straighten out your blades to get ready to fly, there's not really any way to get them 100% by eyeballing them. When the blades start to spin up, the blades will be a little off balance because of this, and the heli will vibrate.......as the blades spin faster, unless they're in the grips too tight, they will straighten themselves out, thanks to centrifugal force.......once they've done that, and got to a reasonably high speed, most of the vibration goes away, and what doesn't go away, becomes a higher frequency vibration that is difficult to see.
Contributed by H0ndaJunkie
Just grab blades by the end(tips) and pull. this will get it as close to even as posible. should spool up fine from here as long as you have the blades balanced
Contributed by sratzo
亚拓在启动和大桨转速低时摆动，但在起飞后便会平稳
当你拉直大桨准备飞行时，其实并不能使其完全完全被拉直以适合飞行，因为目测不是百分百准确的，。当大桨开始旋转时，大桨会有一些不平衡，因此直升机就会开始振动，在大桨转动越来越快后，它们将会受离心力作用而甩直，除非大桨夹锁的太紧。当大桨达到一定转速后，绝大部分振动都会消失，其他的振动也会变成高频的振动而变得难以察觉。
该条建议由H0ndaJunkie提供。
抓住大桨桨尖的位置将其拉直，这样可以使其尽可能的平衡，转动起来也就会平稳了，当然前提是你已经做好了大桨的平衡。
该条建议由sratzo提供。

作者: xuesing 时间: 2007-12-11 10:19
Very good, thanks

作者: synoman 时间: 2007-12-11 10:23
请高手继续:loveliness:

作者: gd163 时间: 2007-12-11 10:27
才翻译了一段呀，其它的继续呀！:em15:

作者: extreme 时间: 2007-12-11 11:10
电直新手，有些词看不太懂，就从第二点开始吧:em15:

Tail boom adjustment. ,Q!m;t p2[+H0[,w
Make absolutely sure the vertical tail is truly vertical- prevents belt shredding.
Tail spins uncontrollably 8Q"g3X5h:c#N9N+e
(L;O+g)\*l(B t:\4@8N
Gyro direction: Make sure you have the right direction set on your gyro, your helicopter should at best spin very slowly if your linkage is off but if it spins wildly it more than likely because your Gyro direction is set wrong.bbs.5imx.com)@/a6c%h4A1k+J-c7m
&C:I0?"J&t3B3T)g9Y9b
Tail blade direction: another thing to check is your tail blade direction, make sure that the tail blades are spinning up into the wash, meaning your blades will spin counter clockwise if you are looking straight at them.
尾桨发出噪音
务必确认垂直尾翼与地面完全垂直，以免皮带扭曲磨损。

发生无法控制的尾旋
检查陀螺仪的方向：确定陀螺仪上的方向设置是正确的。如果问题仅仅出在球头连杆的虚位，飞机最多只会慢慢地旋转。一旦超过这个速度，很可能是陀螺仪的设置是错误的。
检查尾桨方向：你还需要检查尾桨方向，站在机尾从上往下看，尾桨应该是从机头的方向往机尾方向甩（换句话说在机尾看尾桨的右面，尾桨应该是逆时针旋转）

作者: 好爱好爱机 时间: 2007-12-11 11:19
头晕了我

作者: 清乐 时间: 2007-12-11 11:23
好累！

作者: 天天飞夜航 时间: 2007-12-28 11:42
难道和国内常见问题有什么不同吗:em22:

作者: 火警119 时间: 2007-12-28 12:28
都差不多的

作者: daniao 时间: 2007-12-29 15:33
辛苦了!

作者: chujian 时间: 2007-12-29 16:11
貌似楼主这几天在家狂修450课程，墙壁被打了，小心下次打到脑袋:em15:

作者: 飞车 时间: 2007-12-30 08:55

原帖由 chujian 于 2007-12-29 16:11 发表
貌似楼主这几天在家狂修450课程，墙壁被打了，小心下次打到脑袋:em15:

这两天在准备考试，都没飞了。

作者: 我大爷呵呵 时间: 2008-1-10 15:21
Very good, thanks

作者: lhb 时间: 2008-2-2 21:41
标题: aa
afsashgsfgdsafedsfsa

作者: ahzhangtian 时间: 2008-2-2 21:45
不懂英文:em23:

作者: bigcatdairy 时间: 2008-2-6 17:47
看不懂～

作者: richent 时间: 2008-2-11 04:05
标题: 狗尾续貂,提供更容易懂的语文

原帖由 happymatt 于 2007-12-9 21:52 发表
译文作些修改，锦上添花：

如何防止尾皮带松脱

最常见的尾皮带松脱的原因是尾管在固定座中向前滑动。为了防止这种松脱，可以在尾管上被固定座夹持部分缠上一圈胶带，这样可以增加尾管的外径以使固定座能更 ...

上面这一段翻的比较精确, 我也来凑个狗尾续貂, 提供更容易懂的语文:

如何防止尾皮带松动:
最常见的尾皮带松动原因, 就是固定座未能防止尾管向前滑动。为了防止这种滑动，可以在尾管被固定座夹住的部分绕贴一圈胶带, 以增加尾管的外径, 这样一来, 固定座就能更有效的夹紧尾管。4r,w3C2A+A;c3u6v,f

另外，在尾管紧靠着固定座的地方, 再多装一个锁尾舵机用的固定架(必需紧紧的顶住固定座)，也可以起到加强防止尾管向前滑动的作用。7Q9V4`/C*C%R)O3y.T3Y
(\:Y6v/_(Y"T"T#I(k#_-X*p3g

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5iMX.com 我爱模型 玩家论坛 ——专业遥控模型和无人机玩家论坛（玩模型就上我爱模型，创始于2003年）

5iMX.com 我爱模型玩家论坛 ——专业遥控模型和无人机玩家论坛（玩模型就上我爱模型，创始于2003年）