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标题: 大家油直是怎样调试发动机的? [打印本页]
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-18 14:27
标题: 大家油直是怎样调试发动机的?
这个问题一直在困惑着我,油直不像油固,没有办法让发动机高速后仔细调整主油针,大家是怎么调整的呢?
作者: zattan22    时间: 2008-12-18 15:25
http://www.jupiter-venlo.nl/Algemeen...0EN%20v3.1.pdf
作者: zattan22    时间: 2008-12-18 15:26
I think there is a lot of misunderstanding about how the OS carbs work. This is probably why everyone gets worried about where that mid-range needle is running.

The 60 series carbs all share the same operating principles. In the engine manuals, OS goes to great lengths to discuss how to tune these motors. I've found that virtually nobody bothers to even read the manual, much less take the time to understand it. OS puts a graph in the manual to describe the hi speed and mid-range needle tuning and how they are related. They also have a great flow chart which describes the tuning process. If you understand the following, you can envision how that graph was developed. You can also understand the mechanical design of the carb, and get a better idea of how to tune these engines.

The Hi speed needle on these carbs is similar to the front door to your house. EVERYTHING that goes into the carb has to go through this needle valve first. Here's a diagram I put together quickly a while back to better understand the internals. I planned on making something nicer based on this, but I just ran out of time.



The fuel flows through the hi speed needle, which controls the flow through the entire carb, then into the Mixture Control Valve.

THis is an overall photo/desciption of the carb body functions.



Here is a photo of the Mixture Control Valve (MCV)



This mixture control valve has a window in it's center. Fuel flows from the hi speed needle through this window. The cateye rides inside the MCV, and fuel flows through the window, into the cateye's opening. The exposed opening depends on the throttle position. The more throttle you give, the more opening is exposed. One point to note...only one half of the cateye opening has a metering effect. THis is because only one half will ever become exposed in the window.
Here's a shot of the cateye.




Some fuel also flows around the MCV, and is available to the mid-range chamber. I say 'available' because it doesnt necessarily have to be used. THe primary metering channel of these carbs is from the hi speed needle, through the window in the MCV, through the cateye, and into the spraybar.

The throttle barrel, or rotor as it is described by OS, has it's own cateye. THis is the midrange cateye. Fuel flows, when demanded and available, through this cateye, and down into the spraybar via a 'backdoor' inside the rotor.



There is a port drilled from the mid-range needle chamber to a small hole inside the carb's case.



This port is exposed to the rotor's midrange cateye at about 20% throttle opening. THis means that the midrange channel of the engine is not effective before 20% barrel opening. It is completely covered again at approximately 90% barrel opening.

What does this mean? THis means that at full throttle, the midrange needle has zero effect on tuning. All fuel is flowing through the primary metering channel - the cateye in the center of MCV that is attached to rotor assembly.

OS gives us a very good description of every control on the carburetor in the manual. Pages 18 and 19 in the SZH manual has all this info. On pages 23-27 we have the tuning info.

So now that we've looked at some mechanics, and reviewed our manual, what does this tell us?

Since all fuel must flow through the Hi-speed needle FIRST, this is the most critical needle on the carb.

When tuning, we should first make a preliminary adjustment of the MCV screw to set an acceptable idle and transition to higher throttle settings. If she stumbles and chokes on spool-up, you are too rich. If she cackles and races to higher throttle settings, the MCV is too lean.

We then hover the model at an arbitrarily 'safe' needle setting. I typically use 2 turns on the hi and 1 turn on the mid if the motor has been broken in.

In a hover, we can tell if she's insanely rich or lean, so we make our first adjustment. The manual tells us to move the hi needle in 3-4 click increments initially. Then we do 1 or 2 click increments later for fine tuning.

So we adjust the hi needle so the heli hovers relatively smoothly. Notice we havent touched the mid-range yet.

Now its time for the most important part of OS 60 series carb tuning - running at full throttle and setting that hi needle once and for all. Please make sure you have your collective pitch set correctly before attempting to tune. Start with 10/-10. I cant tell you how many helis I've tried to tune, where the owner insisted he had 10/10 and it was really +14/-8. You will NEVER be able to tune your engine and make it run well if the heli's mechanical setup is not correct. I start with 10/10, get the machine tuned close, then slowly increase pitch (while fine tuning hi end) Don't start with 12/12. Its a 90, but only a select few can manage pitches greater than 11/11.

Now, back to the hi end tuning. Whats important here - and hopefully now that we understand the carb's internals a little better- is to make sure the mid-range needle is entirely out of the picture. This means we need to be at pretty much full throttle and loaded.

This can't effectively be done doing tic tocs, or chaos, or anything silly. You'll drive yourself nuts doing it like this. What this means is.......get that heli doing a maneuver which demands full throttle for an extended period of time. Giant loops, where you are loading the heli hard on the initial climb, and barely having to lift off the throttle over the top. I find that hurricanes are a great tuning maneuver for the high end, because you never have to reduce the throttle setting.

You will tune the hi needle like this until the engine sounds smooth, and pulls really well without cackling, tail wagging, sagging, etc. I'll typically come out of the hurricane and roll level inverted - transitioning to a loaded half outside loop. At the very top of this loop I hit throttle hold.

If the engine settles to a nice idle within a second or two, and you are happy with how she pulled through the big maneuver - you have completed the hi speed needle tuning. If the engine 'hangs' or cackles for more than 2 seconds before settling to and idle (or if she never settles to and idle) then there are two possibilities...

1.) your throttle trim or throttle hold setting are too high
2.) you are too lean, and the engine is hot and angry (richen and repeat process)

Through all of this - the midrange needle still hasnt been touched. Why should it be? It has been pretty much non-functional, as all fuel was going through primary cateye into spraybar.

Now it's time to set the mid-range. The mid is there to supplement fuel flow in that 20-90% throttle range. Here is where we can do our tic tocs, sudden stops, chaos - any maneuver that will transition from hi needle range (90% and above) down through the midrange and back. We are looking for a smooth transition.

This is so hard to describe in text. It's a 'feel' thing. You are looking for a nice transition. You want a powerful and smooth midrange and you want her to immediately transition to that powerful and smooth hi end that you set earlier. If she's too rich in the mid, you are gonna make the transition from mid-range to top end and notice that it takes a second or two before top end really kicks in. Thats because she was loaded up in the mid, and it took a second or two to clean that excess rich mid fuel out of engine and transition to your perfectly tuned top end. If she cackles in the mid, well, you are too lean. Like I said - its a 'feel' thing that must be learned.

The 60M-C carb in it's stock form has a larger cateye than the older 60K (its actually the 60M's cateye). OS did this to eliminate the lean mid-range issue that the 60K had on the gold headed Cspec. As a result - more fuel flows through the primary channel of carb, and less midrange is theoretically necessary.



Once the hi end and mid are tuned....the relationship between the two is established. When the temp or climate changes, you should only have to adjust the hi speed needle. You should not have to mess with your midrange again. Of course, if you change fuels, helis, mufflers, etc - its back to square one.

The pumped 60M-P utilizes the smaller 60K cateye because the pump regulator system increased flow to the hi speed needle 'front door.' I flew the 60M-P with the 60M-C's large cateye for some time, and it was almost impossible to tune correctly.

The 60M-P fuel delivery system pushes enough flow through the primary metering channel that the midrange needle does not need to be open very much (under typical conditions)

As for the tuning info above - there are other variables. Shims and plugs also enter into the equation. That's for another post, cuz I've rambled too long.

Hopefully someone will find this info somewhat helpful, and clear up some misconceptions about tuning these carbs.

Oh, and did you ever wonder what the balls were on your carb?
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-18 15:42
谢谢你,但这个pdf档案怎么不能下载,也看不见.
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-18 15:46
Try to read the article which you pasted here, you are talking about the OS engine, am I right?
作者: 我爱700    时间: 2008-12-18 17:51
真是的，非要说洋文吗:em22: :em22: :em22: :em22: :em22: ？请到外国的模型论坛上发吧，
作者: 1222    时间: 2008-12-18 21:10
标题: 假 洋鬼子
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-19 08:27
不清楚楼上的来历,看他提供的信息都是英文,怀疑也许是外国人.
作者: 浪漫极光    时间: 2008-12-19 13:34
靠！一堆英文，你让我们这些小学毕业的怎么能看的懂啊！
作者: cloud80    时间: 2008-12-21 00:54
标题: 楼主如果需要！
如果需要我们可以探讨！我的电话：13307326232
作者: jjaaaaa    时间: 2008-12-21 13:10
标题: 你看它是怎么玩“JBA”的！！！
:em19: :em19: :em19:
原帖由 cloud80 于 2008-12-21 00:54 发表
如果需要我们可以探讨！我的电话：13307326232
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-22 20:54
没有问到,顶起来继续问.
作者: 無刷電機    时间: 2008-12-24 16:21
原帖由 Suzhoujimmy 于 2008-12-18 14:27 发表
这个问题一直在困惑着我,油直不像油固,没有办法让发动机高速后仔细调整主油针,大家是怎么调整的呢?


調整高速油針這个呢..只能實際加速起飛看狀態了...除非你叫個人在底在抓住腳架..也是有人這樣調的啦只是抓的人感覺很恐怖..
不過..實際調整用言語形容的話..實在蠻難的..因為看發煙量與聽聲音....實在不是用言語形容的..而且用油的不同...發煙量與聲音上也不同
像小弟用cosmo30%與威寶 30% 同樣耗油率與發動機溫度之下..發煙與聲音就是有差異
所以還是要看您用哪種油料..再上網問問有無其他人跟你同樣的配置..參考他們使用經驗來調整..
所以老前輩說的發動機型號油針調整的圈數..與用油的%配合..倒是可以上網搜索看看建議值..
從建議值的圈數開始左右微調幾格看看...實際起飛懸停10分鐘下來..再量測一下曲軸箱底部的溫度..一般說來..太冷也不行..太熱也不行
所以會有个曲軸箱溫度50~70度建議值..而且情況正常的話...化油器會是冷的..因為物理現象白努力定律.文式管現象..所以經過化油器口的空氣流速快..所以溫度低

其次...轉進主油針..在遙控器同樣的油門數值下..力道與轉速達到最高值..這樣怎麼測就比較難了..有人用錄像機錄下高速狀態..然後再經過剪輯軟件慢動作放影來計算每分鐘主槳轉速
當然這是很麻煩又費時的....有些人則用雷射轉速計去測試主槳轉速...或是直接用定速器來定轉速比較方便...
當抓出最高轉速後...飛航道下來..曲軸箱底溫度維持在56十度時..
算是高速的最佳調整吧..
但是..油門曲線與螺距的配合..則要拿捏的準..一般都是依照廠家的建議值設定螺距曲線與油門曲線...
怠速加速到低速這段的話..因為您有油固調機的經驗..您就該知道如何調整會比較順暢吧.
.依小弟以前玩過幾顆os小型發動機來說
通常小弟拿到發動機都是發動後先調出高速...然後收油後不管有無熄火....趁熱機時..再下來調整低速油針..
然後調整完再升空試試油門低中高全速域的反應..看看有無過富油或貧油現象
然而..富油或貧油現象一般都是算耗油率與聽發動機聲音還有看發煙才容易判斷的..不是用紙張能形容的
這些現象的形容..您上網也能搜尋的到..
但最簡易的方式..就是直接帶著機子去飛場找前輩指導..這是最快的..大約一次你就能知道很多調整的技巧
沒辦法...因為前輩都是花錢買經驗在試機的..
作者: Suzhoujimmy    时间: 2008-12-25 14:58
原帖由 無刷電機 于 2008-12-24 16:21 发表


調整高速油針這个呢..只能實際加速起飛看狀態了...除非你叫個人在底在抓住腳架..也是有人這樣調的啦只是抓的人感覺很恐怖..
不過..實際調整用言語形容的話..實在蠻難的..因為看發煙量與聽聲音....實在不是用言語 ...

非常感谢無刷電機 的精辟解说,我会按照您解说的方法和步骤去逐渐的调整我的引擎,一段时间下来,我越来越感觉到,飞行经验的积累非常重要,这样你才能和你的引擎"捆绑"在一起,用心去体会引擎的工作状态,简单的别人的解说也只能是一个引导的作用,要想充分发挥我们的引擎的最大/最高能力,我需要时间.

再次非常感谢你的指导并致以圣诞及新年的祝福!

Jimmy in Suzhou



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